Hong Kong Eatery Earns Three Michelin Nods for Authentic Vietnamese Flavors

An Choi, a Vietnamese restaurant in Hong Kong, has been recognized with three consecutive Michelin honors for its commitment to authentic Vietnamese flavors, refusing to dilute its unique taste for local palates. The eatery is run by Kay Mai (38), also known as Mai Ho Kim Khanh, alongside her Hong Kong husband and chef, Lewis Dai. Born in Ho Chi Minh City, Khanh's upbringing, influenced by her father from the north and mother from the central region, and her childhood in the Mekong Delta, instilled in her a deep appreciation for the diverse flavors of Vietnamese cuisine. This passion was further ignited when, as a student abroad in her 20s, she found that most Vietnamese restaurants overseas had significantly altered their dishes to suit foreign tastes. Returning to Vietnam for work in 2018, she met Dai, a chef specializing in Western cuisine. Together, they explored Vietnam's culinary landscape, realizing the depth and richness of Vietnamese food beyond what was commonly known internationally. After marrying in 2020, they moved to Hong Kong and gained extensive experience managing seven restaurants during the COVID-19 pandemic, which eventually inspired them to launch their own brand. In 2023, they opened An Choi (Eating & Playing) in Sheung Wan District, aiming to showcase regional Vietnamese dishes beyond the most famous ones. The restaurant's decor, featuring stainless steel tables, plastic chairs, and polka-dot glasses, is designed to evoke the vibrant street food stalls of Vietnam. Khanh, having lived in HCMC, prioritized southern dishes, offering a daily rotation of regional noodle soups. Khanh emphasizes that Vietnamese cuisine's distinctive fermented sauces and ingredients are key to its appeal. Many sauces are sent from Vietnam by her mother, and herbs are imported three times a week, with most ingredients prepared fresh daily on-site. The only compromise made for Hong Kong palates is a slight adjustment to the broth for pho. An Choi faced initial challenges, as customers were hesitant to order when pho was not on the weekend menu. However, Khanh persisted, patiently explaining the preparation and stories behind each dish. Over time, this dedication cultivated a loyal customer base, with some diners even traveling to Vietnam after being inspired by An Choi's offerings. The restaurant's Bun mam (Mekong Delta noodle soup made with fermented fish), once unpopular, later gained acclaim from Vogue Hong Kong for its complex flavors. Michelin lauded An Choi for its cha ca (turmeric-marinated grilled fish with dill) and its commitment to preserving Vietnamese culinary heritage. The restaurant was added to Michelin's New Additions list just seven months after opening, followed by a Bib Gourmand award within its first year, and subsequent honors in 2024, 2025, and 2026. "I believe baking our own bread, making fresh broth every day, and staying true to Vietnamese flavors earned An Choi these honors," Khanh stated. "We're the only Vietnamese restaurant in Hong Kong that bakes its own bread." When asked to select dishes capturing the spirit of Vietnamese cuisine, Khanh chose Bun bo Hue, while Dai opted for Bun mam. They both agreed that Banh mi, a dish they have devoted significant effort to, remains a key draw for customers. While Michelin recognition is significant, the couple finds greatest pride in the number of locals who visit Vietnam to experience the dishes they first discovered at An Choi. Source: VnExpress International