Vietnamese Northwest Flavors Find Home in Australian Restaurant

Duong Melbourne in Australia is introducing the unique cuisine of Vietnam's northwestern highlands to local diners. Owner Nguyen Quynh Lam, driven by a passion to share her hometown's flavors abroad, has overcome ingredient sourcing challenges to achieve success. The restaurant's "grilled fish with cham cheo (herb dipping salt)" is a northwestern dish considered exotic even within Vietnam, eliciting surprise from Australian locals who describe the flavors as unlike anything they've encountered before. Lam left Vietnam for Melbourne in 2014. While pho and banh mi were readily available, her childhood favorites from Son La province, such as "grilled meat with cham cheo," were absent. "Dishes that feel ordinary back home gain significance when you can't find them anywhere overseas," she notes. In 2017, she opened a small eatery with about 10 tables. "I was unsure if guests would embrace dishes they had never heard of," she admits, "but I believe every regional Vietnamese cuisine has its own value and deserves to be shared with the world." While experienced in the food industry, ingredient sourcing presented the biggest hurdle. Spices like mac khen (wild pepper) and hat doi (magnolia seed) had to be air-freighted from northern Vietnam, incurring high costs due to import duties, storage, and quarantine regulations. Seasonal scarcity also forced menu adjustments; for instance, their hoa ban (mountain ebony blossom) salad is only available early in the year. "I prioritize quality and flavor over selling at any cost," Lam emphasizes. Over a decade, the eatery has expanded into a 500-square-meter restaurant with 12 staff and 200 covers. The interior is decorated with brocade textiles and bamboo and rattan elements, inspired by the northwestern highlands. On special occasions, staff don traditional Thai or Hmong attire to welcome guests. The restaurant typically serves 150-200 customers daily, a number that doubles on weekends and holidays. Approximately 30% of diners are Caucasian, with the remainder being Vietnamese and other Asians. The menu features around 30 dishes, with the "Tay Bac grilled platter" (pork, beef, chicken, or fish served with cham cheo sauce) being a standout. Fried fish, nem nam (fermented pork with rice powder), and hotpot are also popular. Guests trying spices like mac khen and cham cheo for the first time often express curiosity. "Some people ask about this type of pepper, saying the aroma is unlike anything they know," Lam shares. The kitchen can also adjust spice levels upon request while preserving the dish's core flavors. After their meals, diners are often seen discussing their experience. Some overseas Vietnamese are moved to reminisce about their time back home. "Some guests say the food reminds them of family meals from years ago. For me, that means more than any business success," Lam states. She plans to open a coffee shop and Vietnamese dessert place in Melbourne alongside the restaurant. "I want a place where guests can sit a little longer after their meal," she adds. Information source: VnExpress International